Johnny Shell at Keypoint Intelligence, outlines the advances in pigment printing, automated garment production, direct-to-film (DTF) workflows and AI design tools transforming apparel manufacturing
The pace of production is changing. Throughout its history, the manufacturing of apparel followed a familiar cycle. Designs were finalised months ahead of a season and production happened in large overseas runs. Finished goods moved slowly through global distribution networks.
“Automation tends to attract the most attention”
A CHANGING LANDSCAPE
That system still dominates the industry, but fewer companies feel comfortable relying on this. Today, sales data arrives almost instantly. Brands can watch demand shift in real time and a signal on social media can push a product into popularity overnight. When manufacturing decisions still take months to play out, the old schedule begins to feel increasingly out of sync with demand.
In response, the machinery behind apparel production is starting to move in new directions. Over the past year, several technologies have begun to reshape how garments move from concept to production. These include pigment-based textile printing that removes wet processing, automated garment printing lines and expanding DTF decoration workflows. Additionally, artificial intelligence (AI)-assisted pattern design tools and machine-vision inspection systems are speeding up the process. None of these developments rewrites the industry on its own. But together, they begin to narrow the gap between an idea and a finished garment.
REMOVING THE WET PLANT
In the past, textile printing relied on a wet-processing chain that few factories could avoid. Once a fabric was printed it typically moved through steaming, washing and drying stages in order to fix dyes and remove chemical residue. The process worked, but it consumed large amounts of water and energy while requiring extensive infrastructure.
Pigment-based, digital-textile printing approaches the process differently. Systems such as EFI Reggiani’s ecoTERRA, apply pigment inks that sit on the surface of the fabric rather than chemically bonding with the fibres. Instead of steaming and washing, the printed textile requires thermal curing to polymerise the binder and fix the pigment. In the case of ecoTERRA, fixation and finishing occur inline through an integrated drying and polymerisation unit. This eliminates the need for separate pretreatment, steaming or washing steps.
That difference has practical consequences on the factory floor. Facilities built around pigment printing no longer require the same wet-processing infrastructure that traditional dye workflows depend on. This becomes increasingly relevant as apparel brands place greater scrutiny on water use and environmental impact throughout their supply chains.
The technology is not universal. Pigment inks behave differently across fabrics and adoption continues to expand as colour performance improves.
The Mimaki TXF300-1600 wide-format printer
The Mimaki TXF300-1600 wide-format printer
KORNIT APOLLO SYSTEM
Digital garment printing once lived mostly in the customisation corner of apparel production. Operators loaded shirts onto platen printers one at a time, printed them, then moved them through curing equipment. The process offered flexibility, but scaling meant increased labour. New production platforms are beginning to rethink that model.
The Kornit Apollo system – introduced as an automated garment printing line – combines several stages of the process. Garments are robotic-assist loaded and move through digital printing and curing. They are then robotically unloaded and exit through an integrated sorting system. Instead of treating each shirt as an individual job, the equipment runs more like a continuous production flow.
Automation does not remove the operator entirely, but it does change the role. Instead of physically handling every garment, operators oversee the system as it runs. That distinction becomes important for decorators trying to expand digital production without increasing labour.
The Kornit Apollo printer
The Kornit Apollo printer
DTF REWRITES APPAREL DECORATION
Automation tends to attract the most attention. However, another shift has been unfolding in smaller print shops and fast-moving merchandise businesses.
DTF printing has expanded rapidly across the apparel-decoration market. The process works differently to both screen printing and direct-to-garment (DTG) systems. Graphics are printed onto a transfer film, powdered with adhesive, cured and later applied to garments using heat and pressure. Manufacturers such as Mimaki – with its TXF-series printers – have focused on improving white ink stability and production reliability.
For decorators, the appeal is straightforward. DTF prints can be transferred onto cotton, polyester, blends and synthetic fabrics without complicated set-up. Shops can print multiple designs ahead of time, store them on film and apply them later when orders arrive. That flexibility has proven difficult to ignore for short-run merchandise, online apparel brands and promotional products.
DESIGN WORKFLOW ACCELERATION
Printing equipment attracts the most attention, but the front end of the process is also evolving. Fashion design has always involved repetition. Patterns are tested in multiple colour ways, slight variations of the same motif are explored and seasonal adaptations are developed from earlier designs. AI-assisted design tools are beginning to automate parts of that work.
Platforms such as Adobe Firefly and specialised textile design software, allow designers to generate pattern variations. They also enable experimentation with colour palettes and scale, repeating graphics more quickly than traditional manual workflows allow. Adobe has incorporated generative AI capabilities directly into its design ecosystem, including tools used for textile pattern development.
These tools do not replace designers, but they do make the design process move faster. Designs that once required hours of manual adjustment can now be explored quickly and sent directly into digital-textile printing workflows. For brands trying to move from concept to product faster, that acceleration matters.
AUTOMATED FABRIC INSPECTION
As digital-textile printing moves towards larger production volumes, quality control becomes harder to manage manually. Inspecting printed fabric by eye is slow and inconsistent. Missed defects can mean metres of wasted material.
Machine-vision inspection systems offer another approach. High-resolution cameras monitor printed textiles continuously. Meanwhile, software analyses images for issues such as mis-registration, colour variation or printhead failures.
Platforms such as ISRA Vision’s SMASH fabric-inspection system, use AI-based image analysis to detect surface defects and print irregularities while the fabric moves through the production line. The system alerts operators as soon as problems appear. In this way, adjustments can be made before defects spread across large sections of material.
Machine-vision inspection provides a level of monitoring that manual inspection alone cannot sustain as production speeds continue to rise.
“DTF printing has expanded rapidly across the apparel-decoration market”
KEY POINTS
None of these technologies will replace the existing apparel supply chain overnight. Large seasonal production runs still define much of the industry.
Even so, the rhythm inside many textile-printing operations is already changing. Production cycles are tightening, runs are becoming shorter and decisions increasingly happen closer to demand.
Pigment printing simplifies processing. Automated garment systems reduce manual handling. DTF workflows make short-run decoration easier to manage. AI tools speed the design process, while machine vision helps maintain quality as production accelerates.
Together these technologies give apparel production something it has rarely had before. The ability to respond. For textile and apparel printers, that responsiveness may become their most valuable capability.
CONCLUSION
Staying ahead requires more than watching the market. It requires an understanding of its direction. Keypoint Intelligence’s Textile, Apparel & Production (TAP) Advisory Service provides the research, analysis and expert guidance organisations need to track emerging technologies, evaluate opportunities and make confident strategic decisions. For a free report that explores 2026’s key trends for the textile and apparel industry, visit here
For more information about the company’s Textile and Apparel Advisory Service visit here
Johnny Shell
Senior Principal Analyst Textile, Apparel & Wide Format Printing, Keypoint Intelligence
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